National Hispanic Heritage Month (September 15 to October 15) gives us an extra reason to applaud Miami’s vast community of Hispanic chefs and the culture– and flavor-rich cuisine they bring to the Magic City year-round. In honor of this celebration, we asked seven top local superstars to tell us about a dish at their restaurants that is a true expression of their heritage.
Chef Fiorela Cornejo, Rusty Pelican Miami
“My arroz meloso, which is a creamy rice made with Peruvian seco sauce, anticucho sauce, shrimp and mahi anticuchero, garlic aioli, and topped with cornbread migas. The seco sauce is a cilantro sauce with aji amarillo pepper, kabocha squash, chicha de jora (Peruvian corn cider), combining Peruvian and mestizo influences; different regions in Peru have their own versions of this. The anticucho sauce is basically a Peruvian barbecue sauce [that] completes the dish. This dish is presented family-style because as Peruvians, we love to share—and eat more!”
Chef Richard Sandoval, Toro Toro
“I’d say my adobo-marinated Cusco half chicken with mashed potato, grilled broccolini, and criolla salsa. Adobo is one of the very first things I learned to make back in my days in Acapulco. As a Hispanic chef, adobo would be what they call my ‘bread and butter.’ It is a most essential seasoning recipe to guarantee maximum Latin flavors with ingredients like chiles, onions, herbs, and spices. I consider adobo to be a most special way to celebrate my Hispanic heritage, as its preparation always brings me back to the flavors of home and learning to cook with my father and Chucho, my other mentor back in my father’s restaurant.”
Chef Lorena Garcia, Chica
“Asado negro arepas: Every family has their version of this traditional Venezuelan dish. My mother’s recipe inspired this dish that I think captures the essence of Latin cuisine and my Hispanic heritage. For the meat, I start off with a typical sofrito, add the traditional herbs and spices, and let it braise in malt beverage and red wine. I place this on top of a sweet arepa, made with anise and unrefined sugar called piloncillo, and then lighten it up with a fresh, spicy pico de gallo.”
Chef Carlos Garcia, Leku
“Arroz negro a la brasa, or mussel and clam black rice, is the most representative of [my] Hispanic heritage. The black rice gathers many characteristics that represent my Hispanic culture and traditions. It’s a typical dish from Valencia and Catalunya, Spain, but we prepare it with a homemade sofrito of roasted onions and piquillo peppers. It’s served to share in the middle of the table with several hungry diners, which pays homage to those Sunday family gatherings where the focus is sharing good times and good food with our loved ones.”
Chef Michelle Bernstein, Café La Trova
“My dish is a rendition of my mom’s arroz con pollo. This recipe and its culture are embedded in my soul and my family for generations. It is a bit more Argentine in style—or should I better say Martha Bernstein’s style. She came to this country to marry the love of her life, my American dad, David. As I have realized and tasted through the years, every cook’s arroz con pollo is different. Though its ingredients are usually the same, the style, flavor, type of rice, and especially juiciness differ greatly. Mom’s and mine are a bit creamier than most I’ve tried. However, the flavors and sazón of many generations and countries are still very much there. I get a little ‘chefy’ and make mine at Café La Trova with la bomba rice.”
Chef Luis Pous, Calle Dragones
“Because Cuban cuisine didn’t have the opportunity to evolve into its true potential and became fixated on rice and beans, the risotto congri and short ribs vaca frita is a good example of how a classic Cuban dish can be modernized without losing its traditional flavor. In an effort to enhance a traditional vaca frita and congri dish, we substituted rice for the risotto and used the same technique but cooked [it] in the same manner as the popular Italian dish. Close your eyes while eating this dish and you’ll still get the same flavors as congri with vaca frita, but with a modern twist.”
Chef Ana De Sa Martins, Beauty & The Butcher
“My dessert of mamey sticky cake with cream cheese crémeux and orange sorbet. We source the mamey from local farmers in Homestead, and the whole dessert is an homage to both Miami and Venezuela. Mamey, or zapote for Venezuelans, is a fruit I grew up eating in smoothies or by itself. But in this dessert, I completely transform the fruit by incorporating it into cake batter to create this luscious dessert with rich caramel and tropical notes. I feel so blessed to now live in Miami and get the chance to source and create desserts with the fruits I grew up eating.”
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